![]() ![]() running the coil reversed or having a bad diode on the coil shorts the transistors and shorted transistors often kills the diode. they are shorted (causing the lock ons AND the fuses blowing. With the coils that are staying on, replace the transistors tip102's or tip107's on the diver board and it would be best to also replace the diodes for those coils at the same time. After I run the diagnostic coil test for a moment, the fuses do indeed blow. ![]() These are the 2 fuses associated w/ the 2 dead HV circuits described in 4b. Upon immediate power-up, with the coin door open & no high voltage, the Diagnostic Report shows that fuses F100 & F103 are blown. Despite these 2 items staying stuck energized, if I go through all of the solenoid tests & briefly test each one, they all behave normally (except for the 2 listed above).ĥd - With RFM, I still have the same 3 flasher bulbs (see 3a) not working. ![]() However, when I close the coin door interlock high voltage switch, the following 2 items activate & stay stuck activated (but I fear further damage, so I don't let it stay in this state for more than a couple of seconds): Right Sling coil (transistor Q53, connector J112-12, fuse F103), both Upper Hotdog Flashers (transistor Q57, connector J112-17, fuse F109). Is this normal?ĥc - With SWEP1, the Read Test Report at the top of the main menu says that there are no errors. After a moment, the 4 coils on fuse F103 stopped working too (Trough Eject, Left Sling, Right Sling, Left Jet Bumper).ĥa - Now, after rewiring everything correctly (and putting new fuses in-read more about fuses below), I get the following behavior:ĥb - With RFM or SWEP1, the "Health LED2" blinks when the machine is powered on. Before I clued myself in about the diode being reversed, I unhooked the functioning right sling coil's 2 wires & hooked them to my Auto Plunge coil (again, with the diode backwards). After trying for a bit, 3 other coils stopped firing also in test mode: Right Jet, Bottom Jet, & Right Lockup, all 3 of which share Fuse F100 w/ Auto Plunge. Therefore, I made a short wiring harness adapter to swap the polarity of the wires to the coil, figuring it would run "backwards." (I failed to reverse the diode, though.)Ĥb - During test of the coil in RFM Diagnostics mode, Auto-Launch wouldn't fire. The way I re-installed the existing RFM launch coil, I wanted the shaft to move in the direction opposite of how it was intended to move. This suggests that there's something weird in my RFM playfield & that this problem doesn't lie in the power drive board.ģb - Perhaps a bit of an aside, but what exactly makes a bulb burn out? The filament could blow from too much current/voltage/heat/vibration, I imagine.a quick Googling didn't turn up something conclusive that applies to troubleshooting my problem.A good experiment for me would be to swap some pins on the driver board connectors to drive these problematic sockets/wires with a well-behaved transistor, & vice versa, but I haven't the proper tool to pop pins out of connectors, & I don't want to do any mangling.Ĥa - I had just finished bracketry for a plunger/auto-launch combo mod & made quite the electrical goof. These same 3 transistors drive 3 back panel flashers on SWEP1, & those flasher bulbs on my SWEP1 playfield are just ducky-they don't burn out. I replaced these transistors & the bulbs still have almost zero life before blowing. The other flashers on this same fuse circuit work fine. Having said that, if anybody wants to chime in on reading along & troubleshooting, then I'd be most grateful!ģa - Ever since I got RFM, 3 of the #89 flasher bulbs consistently burn themselves out after only a few flashes (in test mode or while playing): Right Arch (transistor Q67, connector J112-9, Fuse F109), Left Martian (transistor Q68, connector J112-10, Fuse F109), & Right Martian (transistor Q69, connector J112-19, Fuse F109). More precisely, the power driver board appears to be damaged.and possibly more(?)ġ - Before getting verbose, does anybody offer repair services on these?Ģ - Or, are there better prices than $495 + shipping ( ) or $349 + $100 shipping to California ( ) for a replacement? I'm having problems with my Pinball 2000 cabinet. ![]()
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